Her Yerde Sanat – Art Anywhere, Mardin, Turkey

A little further East from Sanliurfa, we traversed through scenes of armoured vehicles, military tanks, tyre fires and abandoned shops. The curfew left streets deserted. The dolmus continued steadily toward Mardin. We were nervous to be in such tense and hostile lands, but a kind soul had reassured us to come and promised that we would live an unforgettable moment if we came. As we drove towards Old Mardin, the incredible stone architecture stood with such beauty, that we were glad to have made … [Read more...]

South East Turkey

After a little taste of space exploration (aka Cappadocia), the next stop was time travel. The direction: South-East. We headed towards the gateway of ancient Mesopotamia, along part of the historic trade route of the Silk Road. The world slowly began to metamorphose. The architecture once grey now sand, with only mosques towering over the horizon. The road there was littered with agricultural fields: wheat, corn, cotton. A modern-day testament to the historical fertile crescent, a fertile … [Read more...]

Hitch-hiking Turkey

Hitch-hiking is not only a cheap way of getting around (you don't really get much cheaper than free), but it is also a great way to meet locals and practice your handle on the local language. So far, in Turkey, most people want to know how old you are and whether you are married or not. For a female, it is always safer to say yes. If you are travelling with a male, pretend you are married or engaged, even if you're only friends. And always sit in the back or closest to the door. Never sit … [Read more...]

Eid al-Adha (The Feast of the Sacrifice)

Eid al-Adha is the second largest holiday in Turkey, only second to Eid al-Fitr (the holiday which marks the end of Ramadan). Eid al-Adha, also known as the feast of the sacrifice, refers to the story of Abraham offering his only son to God only to replace it with a sacrificial lamb at the last moment. This holiday is celebrated over 4 days throughout the whole of Turkey and families travel great distances to be together. It all sounds fantastic, until the tradition of every family butchering … [Read more...]

Cappadocia, Turkey

I first visited Turkey back in June 2013. But due to the great hospitality of Turkish people and my poor ability to track the time, I missed my overnight bus to Cappadocia. I fell in love with Turkey the first time I was here, so it was no surprise to find myself back again only a year later. This time, I made sure I visited Cappadocia. Cappadocia (turkish = kapadokya) is a unique region in central Turkey characterised by cave dwellings and fairy chimney rock formations. After meeting a … [Read more...]

11th Konya Mystic Music Festival, Turkey

Konya sits in the heart of Central Turkey. Renown for the whirling dervishes, it is the final home of Mevlana Jelaluddin Rumi (September 30th 1207 - December 17th, 1273), an acclaimed Sufi and poet. Since 2004, Konya has hosted an International Mystic Music Festival, inviting musicians from all across the world to perform in this city ripe with mysticism. The 11th edition hosted artists from Indonesia, India, Iran, Bolivia, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Spain and Mayotte. Performers take stage in … [Read more...]

Turquoise Coast & The Lycian Way

Back in 2013, I took a 4 day cruise aboard a Turkish gulet along the Turquoise Coast from Fethiye to Olympos with AlaTurka Cruises. A year later and I was back to do the inland route. We had taken an overnight bus from Istanbul to Fethiye. The experience was similar to economy-class flying but on the road. The driver focused on the road ahead, whilst an attendant served us hot tea and snacks at regular intervals. My other half tells me that we made two toilet stops on the 12 hour journey, … [Read more...]

Iznik and its decorative trashcans

Iznik is historically famous for its production of cobalt blue glazed earthenware. These painted tiles can be found in various mosques, tombs, libraries and palace complexes in Istanbul and all over Turkey. I first discovered Iznik after visiting Rustem Pasha Mosque (Turkish = Rüstem Paşa Camii) in Istanbul. Rustem Pasha Mosque is most famous for its expansive use of Iznik tiles, decorating the inner walls, mihrab, minbar and external facade with over 80 different floral and geometric … [Read more...]

Hostel Work Exchange in Istanbul, Turkey

As you embark on a long journey, you wonder about how long your resources, namely money, will last. Work exchange has been a method by which travellers can prolong their travels by offering an enthusiastic attitude and a little bit of elbow grease in exchange for free accommodation and sometimes food. There are multiple sites which make work exchange agreements easier to find: www.helpx.net www.workaway.info wwoofinternational.org Or there is always the old fashion way, keep in touch … [Read more...]

Persia and Prejudice

In an effort to define who we are, we focus on that which separates us from one another. We emphasise the qualities that make us unique, an individual; a way to stand out and say here I am. This pursuit of that which defines us, or separates us, often leads us down the path of isolation, alienation and prejudice. Prejudice, where judgment is made on that which differs rather than that which connects us, our common ground. There is no other place in the world that experiences this prejudice … [Read more...]