Africa is not shy to host one of the largest waterfalls in the world, Victoria Falls bordering Zambia and Zimbabwe. Also called Mosi-oa-Tunya in Tokaleya Tonga, translated as “the smoke that thunders”. Victoria Falls stretches 1.7 kilometres and drops at a height of 100 metres. It is quite hard to imagine how big it actually is from the ground. So always wanting to ride in a helicopter at least once in my life, this was the perfect opportunity.
But to hear the smoke that thunders, you really have to be up close and personal with this giant at ground level. It was the start of December, so the Zambezi river was still quite mellow. The rainy season was just starting and it would be another few weeks before the falls become one huge cloud of waterspray. I had heard through the grapevine that it was possible to walk along the top of Victoria Falls, and dry season is the best time to do this. It is just best done with a local guide who is very familiar with the safest routes. One foul move and you could be plunging over the waterfall to inevitable death, which happens almost every year. Not part of my adventure thrills.
I went with another fellow traveller to visit the falls, and just as we entered the gates on the Zambian side, a local greets us and offers to take us on the infamous hike along the ridge. I’m a believer in things happen for a reason, so I replied with a smile and said “why not?”. The walk, which consisted of hopping from rock to rock and maintaining stability as you cross river sections up to your knees in water, wasn’t particularly physically challenging, but the knowledge that if you put one wrong foot or fall into the water it could be a long drop over the waterfall, kept me attentive at all times. Big note: If you have a fear of heights, either don’t attempt this, or attempt this only before you get the proper view of the falls from the lookout points.
We sat on the edge of the waterfall, watching the water tumble over into oblivion, hearing the thunder echo from below. A cloud of waterspray lurks at the bottom of the waterfall, hiding the true height of this monster. I pull my best attempt at looking nonchalant near the edge.
After an hour and a half traversing along the top of the falls, we head down to the lookout points. Here you can truly marvel at the size of the waterfall, especially when a group of three people standing on the edge of the waterfall look about the size of ants. That was enough adrenaline for me, I spent the rest of the day just watching and listening to the roar of this giant.
Not short of impressive nature in Africa, there is also the Okavango Delta in Botswana, one of the largest inland deltas in the world. It is also one of the seven natural wonders of Africa. This delta is home to hundreds of species of fish and birds, and some of the most endangered species of animals, including the African wild dog, black and white rhinoceros, and cheetahs. It is also where you can find the largest population of elephants, so heavily populated that elephant poaching is legal in Botswana. Sadly the cost of relocating elephants is so much greater, poaching is the solution to population control.
The trip into the Okavango Delta took just over 3 hours. First, we caught a speedboat for an hour, then travelled in groups of 2 on mekoro (wooden dug out canoes) for 2 hours to our campsite for 2 nights. The mekoro are gracefully steered with a long pole. We tried manoeuvring the mekoro ourselves but this just turned into all of us falling in the water. We definitely didn’t have the grace that the Tswana people did.
This was a solid bush camp, with no facilities, no electricity, no drinking water (just the billions of tons of it in the delta). We had to bring everything in, and everything out. Leave no trace. We bath in the delta using biodegradable soap, or in my case, just water, with our mekoro polers on the lookout for hippopotamus, crocodiles, lions and cheetahs. Probably the quickest shower I have ever had. We stayed two nights in a very small corner of the Okavango Delta, passing time with game walks, chatting and singing around a campfire, and drinking home-brewed palm wine (served warm, approximately 20% strength) with our polers.
On our last day in Maun, Botswana, we joined our scenic pilots for a drink after a scenic plane ride. We went joy-riding in their car in search of more alcohol after the bar had closed. Unfortunately, due to personal reasons of alcoholism within the presidential family, alcohol was prohibited for sale after 10pm. We didn’t find any alcohol during this joy-ride, but we did have another one of those close-up animal encounters. This time, elephants! A whole pod of 10 elephants arms length from the car, just on the side of the road. With three baby elephants! It was a pity I left my camera in my room, but the image is well imprinted in my memory.
And the last of the big natural spectacles in Africa, Dune 7, Namibia, one of the biggest sand dunes in the world rising up to 380 metres in height. Located in the Namib desert, it is hot, hot, hot, reaching 55 degrees in the peak of the sun. A visit during dawn, watching the sun rise over these montainous dunes, showcasing the yellow, orange and red sand of the dunes is yet another unforgettable sight.
On my departure from Africa, our local South African guide said to me: “You can take the girl out of Africa, but you will never take Africa out of the girl.” I think she’s right.